In the News January 2012
Kenneth Bargers, REALTOR®
a proud member of Pilkerton Realtors
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Seal Your Home's Envelope
for Savings
An average home loses up to 30 percent of its heating and cooling energy through air leaks, with the most significant leaks occurring around windows and doors. To stop air leaks and slow down the money leaks caused by high heating and cooling bills, it's important to seal all air leaks around windows and doors.
In the past, builders and homeowners relied on air leakage, or infiltration, to provide ventilation in a home. But relying on air leakage can be costly because it can't be controlled. For example, during cold or windy weather, too much air can enter a house, causing uncomfortable conditions and high heating bills. During warm and less windy weather, not enough air may penetrate the house's envelope. And heavy air infiltration can eventually lead to moisture control problems if moldy or dusty air enters through attics or foundations. the strategy recommended today in both older homes and new construction is to reduce air leaks as much as possible and to provide controlled ventilation when needed.
First, how can you tell if a home is leaking air? Professionals can conduct a home energy audit, but sometimes a do-it-yourself examination can provide the right information, as well. A home owner can perform a simple test by holding a lit stick of incense near window and door frames where drafts might be expected. The movement and direction of the smoke will provide ample information about the direction that the air is moving.
Weather-stripping is an effective solution to seal moveable joints such as those found around windows and doors. Once it is determined where the weather-stripping should be applied, it is easy to calculate the approximate amount of stripping needed by measuring doors and windows and adding ten percent extra to the total to account for waste or incorrect measuring.
Weather-stripping should be applied to dry surfaces when the temperature is above 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose a product for each specific location. Felt and open-cell foams tend to be inexpensive, but they are susceptible to weather, visible, and inefficient at blocking airflow. However, since these foams have the advantage of being easy to install, they can be useful in low-traffic areas. Vinyl is slightly more expensive, but holds up well and resists moisture. Tubular rubber and silicone weather-stripping are relatively expensive, and can be tricky to install, but they create an excellent seal. Some types come with a flange designed to fit into pre-cut grooves in the jambs of newer doors. Metal weather-stripping using bronze, copper, stainless steel, or aluminum will last for years and is affordable. This option also may be more in keeping with the style of an older home, whereas vinyl might look out of place.
Gaps between the exterior trim and the door, or between the trim and sidling, can create a wind tunnel directing cold air directly inside. These gaps can be sealed with an exterior latex caulk, which at $5 for a ten-ounce tube, will pay for itself many times over in utility bill savings.
SOURCE: Seal Your Home's Envelope for Savings!
John Watkins
Nashville Home Inspection
SOURCE: Preventing Frozen Pipes
The Learning Center; State Farm
Preventing Frozen Pipes
What’s worse than a major home maintenance disaster? How about several major home maintenance disasters at once? For the quarter-million families who have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted each winter because of frozen water pipes, frigid nights can very quickly turn to ongoing, inconvenient, extremely expensive ordeals.
In cold and warmer climates alike, pipes freeze for a combination of three central reasons: quick drops in temperature, poor insulation, and thermostats set too low. Both plastic and copper pipes can burst when they freeze, and recovering from frozen pipes is not as simple as calling a plumber. A 1/8-inch crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons of water a day, causing flooding, serious structural damage, and the immediate potential for mold.
Your Best Bet: Don’t Let It Happen - There are a number of preventative steps you can take to keep your pipes from freezing. Here are a few simple tips:
Before The Cold - Remember the three central causes of frozen pipes? Quick drops in temperature, poor insulation, and thermostats set too low. You can prepare by protecting your home during the warmer months. Here’s how:
- Insulate pipes in your home's crawl spaces and attic, even if you live in a climate where freezing is uncommon. Exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember: The more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be.
- Heat tape or thermostatically controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturers' installation and operation instructions.
- Seal leaks that allow cold air inside near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents, and pipes, and use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out. With severe cold, even a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
- Before winter hits, disconnect garden hoses and, if possible, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house.
When The Mercury Drops - Even if you’ve taken the right preventative steps, extreme weather conditions can still harm your pipes. Here are a few more steps you can take:
- A trickle of hot and cold water might be all it takes to keep your pipes from freezing. Let warm water drip overnight, preferably from a faucet on an outside wall.
- Keep your thermostat set at the same temperature during both day and night. You might be in the habit of turning down the heat when you’re asleep, but further drops in the temperature – more common overnight – could catch you off guard and freeze your pipes.
- Open cabinet doors to allow heat to get to un-insulated pipes under sinks and appliances near exterior walls.
